How to Re-Waterproof a Tent and Rain Gear

Most “leaks” in older gear come from worn DWR, dirty fabric or failing seam tape. Learn how to clean, restore water repellency and seal seams.

By the CampTier team · Updated 2026-10-15 · About 5 min read

Blue tent pitched outdoors — Illustrative stock photo, not a product photo. Photo: H (CC BY 2.0).

Three layers of waterproofing

Tents and rain jackets keep water out with several features working together:

DWR (durable water repellent): a finish on the outer fabric that makes water bead and roll off.
Waterproof coating or membrane: a polyurethane or silicone coating on tent fabric, or a laminated membrane in rain jackets, that actually blocks water.
Seam tape or sealant: stops water entering through needle holes at seams.

When gear starts to leak or feel wet, one of these has usually worn down.

Wetting out isn’t always a leak

When DWR wears off, the outer fabric absorbs water and turns darker (“wets out”). The coating or membrane underneath may still be fine, but a wet outer fabric:

Feels cold and clammy
Stops a rain jacket from breathing, so you get damp from sweat
Adds weight

Restoring DWR often fixes the problem.

Step 1: Clean first

Dirt, body oils, sunscreen and smoke interfere with DWR. Always clean gear before treating it.

Rain jackets: Many can be machine-washed with a technical gear wash. Follow the care label. Rinse well.
Tents: Hand wash in a tub with a gear cleaner. Never machine-wash. See cleaning a tent.

Sometimes cleaning alone revives the DWR, especially when followed by gentle heat (for jackets, low tumble drying if the label allows).

Step 2: Test

Sprinkle water on the fabric. If it beads and rolls off, you’re done. If it soaks in, apply a new DWR treatment.

Step 3: Restore DWR

There are two main types of products:

Spray-on treatments: best for tents and for jackets with wicking linings, since you treat only the outside.
Wash-in treatments: used in a washing machine for jackets and pants. They coat the whole garment.

Follow the product directions. Many sprays are applied to clean, damp fabric, then wiped to remove excess and left to dry. Some need heat to activate; others don’t. Check whether the product is suitable for your fabric and coating.

Use treatments outdoors or in a well-ventilated area.

Step 4: Seal seams

If water seeps through stitch lines:

Pitch the tent or lay out the gear so seams are accessible.
Clean the seam area with rubbing alcohol if the sealant instructions recommend it.
If old seam tape is peeling, remove the loose parts carefully.
Apply seam sealer matched to your fabric coating: silicone-based sealers for silicone-coated (silnylon) fabric and polyurethane-based sealers for PU-coated fabric. Using the wrong one may not stick.
Let it cure completely as directed, often overnight or longer.

Many tent makers state on their care pages which sealer suits their tents.

Step 5: Floor and fly coatings

Polyurethane coatings can break down over years, becoming sticky or flaking, especially if a tent was stored damp or hot. Products exist to recoat fabrics, but results vary. Severe coating breakdown often means it’s time for a new fly or tent; some brands sell replacement flies.

Rain gear care habits

Wash jackets when they’re dirty or after several heavy uses.
Don’t use fabric softener; it can affect breathability and water repellency.
Store them hung or loosely folded, not stuffed wet in a bag.
Avoid ironing unless the label says so (and then only on low).

How often?

It depends on use. Heavy-use rain gear may need DWR restoration once or twice a season. Tents might need it every few seasons. Re-treat when water stops beading after cleaning.

FAQ

Do I need to re-waterproof a new tent?

Usually not. Many tents come seam-taped or seam-sealed from the factory. Some ultralight silnylon tents require you to seal seams yourself; the manual will say so.

Will re-waterproofing fix a torn tent?

No. Patch tears with gear repair tape or a patch kit, then treat. For large tears, contact the manufacturer or a repair service.

Is it safe for kids’ gear?

Use products according to directions, let them cure fully and keep products out of reach of children.

For boots, see boot cleaning and waterproofing. For staying dry at camp, see pitching a tent in the rain.

A simple re-waterproofing plan

Inspect: look for dirty, wetted-out areas, peeling seam tape and worn coatings.
Clean: wash jackets with a technical wash; hand wash tents with a gear cleaner.
Test: sprinkle water to see whether DWR still works.
Treat: apply DWR (spray for tents, spray or wash-in for jackets).
Seal: fix leaking seams with the right sealer.
Dry and cure: follow the product directions before using or storing.

Prevention

Keep gear clean.
Dry gear completely before storage.
Store away from heat and sunlight.
Avoid letting sunscreen and insect repellent soak into fabrics where possible, since some ingredients can affect coatings and finishes.

Wash-in vs. spray-on treatments

DWR treatments generally come in two forms:

Spray-on products let you treat the outside of a garment or tent where repellency matters most, without coating the inside lining. They suit tents, rain flies and many jackets.
Wash-in products are added in a washing machine and coat the whole item, inside and out. They are easy for some garments, but for many waterproof-breathable jackets, makers recommend spray-on so the inner face is not coated.

Read the label of both the product and your gear. Use only products made for the specific fabric.

Heat and DWR

Many makers say that gentle heat can help restore repellency of an existing DWR finish after washing, for example a low-heat tumble dry for garments that allow it. Tents should never go in a dryer. Always follow the care label: some fabrics and coatings are damaged by heat.

Checking your work

After re-treating and drying, sprinkle or spray a little water on the surface. If water beads and rolls off, the treatment is working. If it soaks in and darkens the fabric, try cleaning again and retreating, focusing on high-wear areas such as shoulders, cuffs and the top of the fly.

When re-proofing won’t help

Re-treatment restores surface repellency; it does not repair a failed waterproof layer. If a fly’s coating is peeling or sticky, if seam tape is lifting widely, or if a jacket leaks through the fabric even with good beading, it may need a professional repair or replacement. Check the maker’s warranty and repair programs before deciding.

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General guidance from CampTier, based on manufacturer instructions and common outdoor practice. We don’t claim hands-on testing. Always follow your gear maker’s care and safety instructions. See our safety notes.