How to Clean and Waterproof Hiking Boots

Clean, dry and re-treat boots with the right product for leather, suede or fabric. Keep waterproof membranes breathing and leather from cracking.

By the CampTier team · Updated 2026-10-15 · About 5 min read

Boots on wet ice and rock — Illustrative stock photo, not a product photo. Photo: Jake Hawkes (CC0).

Know your boot material

Boot care depends on the upper:

Full-grain leather: smooth, durable, water-resistant. Responds well to wax or conditioner.
Nubuck and suede: brushed leather with a soft texture. Needs products made for nubuck/suede, as heavy waxes can darken and flatten the nap.
Synthetic fabric and mesh: light, quick-drying. Needs a spray-on water repellent for fabrics.
Mixed uppers: many boots combine leather and fabric. Choose a product that suits both, or treat each area appropriately.
Membrane boots: have a waterproof-breathable liner. Use treatments that don’t clog the outer material.

Check the boot maker’s care page for their recommendations.

Step 1: Clean

Remove laces and insoles.
Brush off dried mud and dirt with a soft brush.
Rinse under lukewarm running water.
Use a boot or gear cleaner (or mild soap if the brand allows) with a brush to scrub the upper.
Rinse thoroughly.

Cleaning matters even if you only plan to waterproof. Treatments don’t bond well to dirty surfaces and can trap dirt.

Step 2: Treat while damp (for many products)

Many water-based waterproofing products are applied to clean, wet boots so they soak in evenly. Read the product directions:

Spray-on: spray evenly from a short distance, wipe away excess and let dry.
Wax or cream: rub into leather with a cloth or fingers, especially seams and creases; buff off the excess.
Conditioner: apply only when leather looks dry; over-conditioning can make some leathers too soft.

Step 3: Dry slowly

Stuff boots with newspaper.
Let them dry at room temperature with airflow.
Don’t use a heater, hair dryer, fire or a hot car. Heat can crack leather and weaken glue.

How often to treat

Treat when water stops beading on the surface, or when leather looks dry and light in color. For hikers in wet climates, that might be several times a season. In dry climates, less often.

Care for membranes

A membrane only breathes well if the outer material isn’t waterlogged. Keeping the outer fabric or leather treated helps the membrane work and keeps feet less sweaty.

Avoid these mistakes

Heavy grease on fabric boots: blocks breathability.
Silicone sprays on leather if the boot maker advises against them: some can dry leather over time.
Soaking leather boots repeatedly: can strip oils and stiffen leather.
Treating dirty boots: traps dirt and reduces effectiveness.

Gaiters and boot care

Gaiters reduce how much mud and water hit your boots. They can extend the time between cleanings and protect laces.

Insoles and interior

Wipe the inside with a damp cloth. For odor, let boots dry thoroughly and wash insoles separately. Some hikers use odor sprays made for footwear.

Storage

Store boots clean and dry in a cool place with airflow. Not in a sealed plastic bag, and not in a hot garage. A boot tree or loose newspaper helps leather boots keep their shape.

FAQ

Can I use any leather product on hiking boots?

Choose products designed for outdoor footwear and your boot’s leather type. Some products for dress shoes aren’t meant for wet trail conditions, and some can affect waterproof membranes.

Do waterproof boots need treatment?

Yes. The membrane keeps water out, but the outer material still needs a water-repellent treatment to stay dry and breathable.

Can I put boots in the washing machine?

Usually no. Hand cleaning is safer. Check the care label.

Daily care habits: hiking boot care. Choosing boots: waterproof hiking boots. Browse on Boots.

Quick reference by boot type

Full-grain leather: clean, then apply wax or a leather waterproofing treatment. Condition occasionally.
Nubuck or suede: clean with a brush, then apply a spray designed for nubuck and suede.
Fabric or synthetic: clean, then apply a spray-on water repellent for fabrics.
Mixed: use a product rated for both, or treat each section with its own product.

Signs it’s time to treat

Water soaks in instead of beading.
Leather looks pale, dry or cracked.
Feet feel damp even with waterproof boots.

Working with a cobbler

If you have quality leather boots with worn soles or damaged stitching, a cobbler who specializes in outdoor footwear may be able to resole or repair them. That can extend their life for years.

Choosing a treatment by boot material

Read the boot maker’s care instructions first. They are the final word, and some brands specify products or warn against others. In general:

Full-grain leather usually takes a leather-specific waterproofing wax, cream or a water-based treatment. Heavy greases and oils can soften leather too much and may not be recommended for boots with a breathable membrane.
Nubuck and suede usually need a spray or water-based product made for napped leathers, because waxes can darken and flatten the nap.
Synthetic fabric and mixed uppers usually take a water-based spray-on DWR (durable water repellent) treatment.

When in doubt, try a product on a small hidden area first and let it dry. Some treatments darken leather, and that change is usually permanent.

Why boots wet out

A boot can feel wet inside for reasons that have nothing to do with a failed waterproof layer:

Water runs in over the top of the collar on wet grass, in stream crossings or in rain.
Sweat builds up inside, especially in warm weather, and can feel just like a leak.
The outer fabric soaks up water when the surface repellent has worn off. The membrane may still be intact, but a saturated upper reduces breathability, so your feet feel clammy.

Cleaning and re-treating the outer surface helps with that last one. Gaiters help with the first.

Drying after cleaning or a wet hike

Drying is where boots get damaged. Heat from campfires, heaters, radiators, hair dryers and car vents can crack leather and weaken glued joints between the upper and the sole. Instead:

Remove insoles and loosen laces fully.
Stuff boots with newspaper or paper towels and replace them when they get damp.
Dry at room temperature with good airflow. A fan helps.
Be patient. Thick leather boots can take a day or more to dry.

Building a simple care schedule

A light routine keeps boots working longer than an occasional deep clean. Brush off dirt after every muddy hike and let boots dry naturally. Re-treat when water stops beading on the surface or when leather looks dry and pale. Inspect stitching, eyelets and the sole edge each season. See hiking boot care basics for the longer-term picture.

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General guidance from CampTier, based on manufacturer instructions and common outdoor practice. We don’t claim hands-on testing. Always follow your gear maker’s care and safety instructions. See our safety notes.